It's sometime in the sixties. You're sitting in a high
school auditorium, an American Legion Hall, The Surfside Playhouse
in Cocoa Beach or maybe the Santa Monica Civic.
lights dim, the projector rolls, the narrator steps to the microphone
and for the next hour or so you're treated to noserides, cutbacks,
perfect point waves, quick closing beachbreaks and ending with the
quintessential big waves. The show is personally narrated by the filmaker
while the music soundtrack blares from a taperecorder.
next morning we'd be at our favorite break, trying all the maneuvers
we'd seen the night before. Kemp's arch, Miki's sideslipe, Phil's
island pullout, Lance's nose work, Diff's drop knee. We'd have these
images burned into our memories until the next show.